Cue Care & Maintenance
Keep your cue in a good case whenever you can, ideally a solid, rigid one. If you don’t have a case, don’t lean it against a wall or leave it standing in a corner. That can cause it to warp over time. It’s always better to lay it flat or keep it in a proper cue rack.
Avoid storing your cue or case near heat sources like radiators or in direct sunlight. Also, don’t leave it in the boot of your car. Cars get very hot during the day and cold and damp at night, and those quick changes in temperature and humidity can damage the wood.
While you’re playing, wipe the cue down with a dry cloth now and then. If it starts to feel sticky, use a slightly damp cloth to clean it, then dry and buff it straight away.
Never use sandpaper on the shaft. Sanding removes the protective seal and leaves the wood exposed, which means it can dry out or soak up moisture. It also slowly wears the shaft down. With ash cues especially, the darker grain is softer than the lighter wood, so sanding can make the shaft uneven.
Every few months, depending on how often you play, treat the cue with raw linseed oil. First, wipe it with a damp cloth and dry it. Don’t use too much water or the wood might swell. Apply a small amount of oil with a cloth or paper towel and leave it overnight to soak in. The next day, wipe off any excess and buff it with clean cloths until it feels smooth and dry. If it feels sticky, wipe it lightly with a damp cloth, dry it, and buff again.
If your cue has a joint, clean the brass faces now and then with very fine wire wool (00–00 grade). Dirt or grease on the joint can affect the way it connects and even the sound when you strike the ball.
To check if your cue is straight, close one eye and look down the cue from the butt to the tip, like you’re sighting a rifle. Slowly turn the cue as you look along it. It should appear perfectly straight and not bend to one side. This method is more reliable than rolling the cue on a snooker table. Many modern cues have a slightly thicker butt to give more power, so they may rock a little when rolled. That doesn’t always mean they’re warped.
Re-Tipping a Cue
Start by cutting off the old tip with a craft knife.
Next, level the top of the ferrule by scraping it carefully with a craft knife or using a cue top sander. Make sure the surface is completely flat and even.
Take a new tip that’s slightly larger than the ferrule. Flatten the back by holding it between your thumb and finger and rubbing it on 240-grit sandpaper placed on a flat surface. Wipe off any dust.
Apply glue to the top of the ferrule. A two-part epoxy like Araldite works well, or you can use gel superglue.
Place the tip onto the glue and carefully line it up so it’s centered. Press it down firmly and wipe away any excess glue. If you’re using superglue, hold it in place for about a minute. Let it cure fully—overnight for epoxy, or 10–20 minutes for superglue.
Once it’s set, turn the cue upside down and rest the tip on a cutting board. Use a very sharp craft knife, ideally with a new blade, to carefully trim the excess tip down to the size of the ferrule. The neater you trim it, the less sanding you’ll need to do, and it helps avoid wearing down the ferrule.
Use a flat file or coarse tip shaper to form a rough dome on the tip. File from the center outward in a rocking motion, turning the cue as you go.
Then, use fine sandpaper to smooth the sides of the tip so they blend neatly into the ferrule. Be careful not to touch the wood below the ferrule.
Finish shaping the dome with a fine-grade tip shaper, using the same rocking motion as before until you’re happy with the shape.
The Basic Rules
When you’re not using your cue, keep it in a good-quality case. A solid case protects it from knocks, temperature changes, and the risk of warping.
Don’t lean your cue against a wall at an angle. Over time, that pressure can cause it to bend. If it’s out of the case, lay it flat or store it properly in a rack.
Keep your cue away from heat and damp conditions. Avoid radiators, heaters, cold rooms, or anywhere that gets damp. Wood reacts to changes in temperature and moisture, which can lead to swelling, shrinking, or warping. Leaving your cue in the car is never a good idea for this reason.
Changes in moisture affect the wood more than you might think. Too much heat or dampness can cause the cue to take in or lose moisture, and that’s when problems start.
Stay away from sandpaper and abrasive pads. They strip off the finish and slowly wear down the shaft. When cleaning your cue, keep it simple and gentle.
Handle your cue with care. Don’t bang it on the floor or against the table. It’s a precision piece of equipment, not something built to take knocks.
Change worn tips as soon as you notice they are past their best. Playing with a damaged tip can affect your game and may even harm the ferrule, which can lead to extra repair costs.
Wash your hands before you play. Clean hands help stop dirt and oils from building up on the shaft.
Never clean your cue with water. Water makes the wood swell. Always use a dry, soft cloth instead.
Make Sure Your Cue Is in Good Shape
Checking your cue regularly helps you spot small problems before they turn into bigger ones. Here’s what to keep an eye on.
1. Check the Joint
If you have a jointed cue, make sure the joint stays clean. Dirt and grime can build up over time, which can cause a poor fit, make it hard to screw together, or create an odd sound when striking the ball. Use very fine wire wool to gently clean the joint faces and keep the connection smooth.
2. Look at the Ferrule
The ferrule supports the tip and takes a lot of impact, so it needs to be in good condition. If it becomes worn or loose, you might hear unusual sounds when hitting the ball. A damaged ferrule can be replaced or secured again to restore the cue properly.
3. Check That the Cue Is Straight
The best way to check straightness is to sight down the cue like you would look down a gun barrel. This gives you a clear view from butt to tip. Rolling it on a table is not always accurate, since things like jointed butts or shaft tapers can stop it from sitting perfectly flat even if it is straight.
4. Look After the Shaft
Over time, the shaft can dry out. To keep it protected, use an oil-based cue wax. First, wipe the shaft with a slightly damp cloth to remove dirt, then dry it straight away with a clean towel. Do not use too much moisture, as that can cause the wood to swell.
Apply a small amount of wax with a soft cloth or paper towel, leave it for a short while, then wipe away any excess until the shaft feels smooth and dry.
